1) Do a visual check of the clutch.
--This should include looking for Damage, Heat Marks on Brake Shroud or Rotor, Cut lead wires and other abnormalities
-- Check the bearing seals for cracks, punctures, heat damage, etc.
--Spin the Rotor with one finger to check the bearings for smooth operation
--Inspect lead wires and connector for breaks, cracks, and exposed wires
--Turn clutch upside down (back plate up) and check the back plate for bends over the air gap adjustment posts.
--Check the Springs that connect the Hub to the Armature to be sure that they are not broken.
2) Check anti-rotation hole for deformities
3) Check Braking Resistance. There should be some resistance when turning pulley by hand when the unit is not powered up.
4) Check Coil Resistance (Ohms)
This will be model specific but should be around 2.5 - 3.5 Ohms for a 12 volt clutch
5) Check Air gaps
This will be series size specific but should be around .012 -.024. Go from .016 -.024 for larger models.
6) Check for Engagement **If Ohms and air gaps are within specification, power up the clutch to check for engagement by applying 12 volts. You should put air gaps to within specification before you do this. **
7) Examine friction surfaces.
To disassemble the clutch brake you need to:
A) Loosen all three air gap adjustment buts and remove them
B) Remove any retaining rings that are holding the clutch together
C) Clamp pulley (with pulley facing upward) and be sure there is space enough below the clutch to push the Rotor and Field coil assembly downward and out separating it from the pulley/Armature assembly.
D) Using a Tool, Press inner bore area of pulley side of the unit downward and out of pulley.
This tool should be metal and be small enough OD to push inner bore area of clutch out while not contacting the inner race of the bearing.
--Examine the friction surfaces and look for abnormalities including bluing (indication of slip condition), deep score marks, rolled up balls of metal (Galling) and Contamination.
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